Yes, buying riding gear can be like buying software after getting the computer – secondary sticker shock. Let’s not even talk about accessories.
Because this blog is primarily about touring, I’ll be writing about protective gear from a touring prospective rather than a day rider’s perspective, so comfort is a huge consideration in some of what I discuss. That’s not to say that what you read here isn’t relevant on short rides, but when you’re just out for a few hours and home is not far away, discomfort is less of an issue than when you are days or weeks from home and riding for most of the day, day after day. That being said, protection is equally important in both scenarios. When considering any gear, think about all your needs in either case.
When we were training new riders, an important part of our classroom session was devoted to riding gear and with very good reason. For the most part there is no reason new riders would have any idea of what gear they needed or what they should consider, yet it is such an important part of safe and comfortable riding. Riding skills are what keeps you upright and protective riding gear is your insurance in case you go down. It’s also the major factor governing comfort in all riding conditions (not counting the seat on the bike 
). What follows is basically our dog and pony show covering protective gear in our classroom sessions from top to bottom.
I’m going to say right up front that if you are the shorts, flip flop, T shirt, no gloves and beanie kind of rider, you are nuts. Either you haven’t gone down, you haven’t considered all the likelihoods or you have no clue what you are in for if you do go down. The term “Russian Roulette” comes to mind. I was a firefighter for 36 years and responded to countless MVA’s involving motorcycles. The needless, extremely painful and life threatening injuries that I have seen would be more than enough to convince anyone to wear proper protective gear. And yes, some deaths occurred that very likely would not have occurred – usually at slow speed. Riders who ride without protection have clearly placed image before safety. Wait until you have lost so much skin from a fall at only 50kmh that you have to be sent to the burn ward. Like I always say: “I had a good job because some people just need looking after”.
Preferences in riding gear are based on such things as comfort, expense, practicality, level of safety, riding style and personal tastes. Personal taste is important and often trumps all the rest. Gear choice almost always involves a compromise between the ultimate in safety and some other factor. When Arlene and I choose our gear we consider all of the above knowing what compromises we are making. When you make that decision you are acknowledging your acceptance of some level of risk, whether great or small. Kind of like deciding to ride a motorcycle in the first place. 
Our choices are our own, but when teaching, we were always careful to give a good all-round explanation of the advantages and disadvantages of any and all types of gear.
Our choices and why we made them
We tour, so comfort over the long haul is a big consideration as well safety. We have heated gear, wear leather jackets and chaps, denim pants, have several pairs of gloves (we usually carry three types at any one time), water proof boots with heavy soles, 1/2 or 5/8 helmets and always carry good rain gear. The compromise in helmets compared to full face and 3/4 is based on weight and heat. In Arlene’s case that includes claustrophobia – full face is definitely out. Long hours in the saddle for weeks on end make it difficult to wear full face helmets. For both of us the heat and weight can be unbearable to the point of being unable to make good decisions. Sounds like an excuse, but for us it’s true. No single pair of gloves will fit all situations and it is not unusual to need three pairs in one day – but we always wear them. We wear heavy leather boots for foot and ankle protection and stability when moving our heavy touring bikes around. The water proof feature eliminates the need for waterproof gaiters, which can hinder proper use of foot controls and generally super-size the feeling of being over-stuffed. We find leather to be the most comfortable with chaps being the big compromise; chaps don’t cover your butt. (I took a slide wearing only jeans on the day they first landed on the moon. The only skin left was a rectangle where my wallet was). They are easily removable at stops and aren’t so dependent on keeping the same waistline year after year – or the beginning and the end of a ride. The rain gear is a no-brainer. It’s good quality and restricts our movements as little as can be expected (XXXL for me who is usually L). The heated gear (and/or layers) is also a must for long distance riding. Again, comfort impacts decision making, and being too cold is every bit as distracting as being too hot. Believe it or not we have worn our heated gear in South Dakota in early August (Sturgis, Ho!) in the mornings. Back to the leather. Besides being very good protection, both of us just like the feel of leather and I will be honest, we just like the look of it. (Sidebar: my jacket weighs a ton but when people ask to try it on, the result is a very satisfied smile)
We have about $2000 worth of gear each. That wasn’t bought all at one time and it is definitely easy to start out and get by with less.
The “uniform”
It seems that every riding style dictates a certain “uniform”. Can you picture a rider with a traditional double breasted leather jacket, half helmet, chaps and heavy boots riding a sport bike? Conversely, can you picture a rider wearing a full leather suit and light “slipper” boots riding a cruiser or full touring bike? There is no doubt that riding style can dictate what type of protective gear you wear for both practical and aesthetic reasons. The thing to remember is that it is possible to be well protected wearing various styles of gear. As my dad used to say, “There’s more than one way to skin a cat”.
Let’s have a look at some differences and the relative considerations.
Helmets
I would like to preface this section with the comment that you should do a lot of homework yourself on this piece of protective gear; it is clearly the most important piece. My objective here is to describe the relative differences so that you can take it from there. Understand that any jurisdiction requiring helmets requires a DOT approval sticker (and not the stickers you buy at Sturgis) and the very best ones also carry a Snell approval. The major difference in approved helmets and “beanies” is the styrofoam liner that is design to crush to absorb impact. Beanies don’t have a liner, thus offering zero protection. Trust me – I’ve seen the results on the street. Helmets have a shelf life of about 5 years depending on storage near hydrocarbons (don’t leave them in the garage). They are disposable if ever involved in a crash of any kind because the foam is designed to crush but stays crushed. It doesn’t work a second time unless you make a point of hitting your head in a different spot. A fall from the seat of the bike can cause damage to the shell that is not visible through the paint, so store your lid securely on the bike when parking. NEVER buy a used helmet. Make sure you get a knowledgeable sales person to help you chose the right size. Wear it around the store for 20-30 minutes to see of it is too tight. Helmets “break in” a bit so a new one will seem a little tight but shouldn’t be painful after the 20-30 minute “ride” around the store.
Although an indirect advantage over simple physical protection, visibility is a significant aspect. Bright multi coloured or white helmets or some aspect of reflectivity are the most visible.
Full face
I don’t own one so my opinions here are exactly that: opinions. On the other hand I have tried them out, spoken to knowledgeable people and read quite a bit about them. Clearly full face helmets offer the best protection and to me it would seem reasonable to get the lightest, best ventilated model you can get. That doesn’t necessarily mean the most expensive, because I have seen some really good helmets for not that much money, but obviously the expensive ones have all the bells and whistles. Typically they are far better than they used to be and are a very good choice for someone who wears prescription glasses (no goggles required). Interchangeable clear and dark lenses are available but you have to think about where you will pack the extra lens on a trip. Look for helmets with removable washable liners.
Modular
A modular helmet looks like a full face but the chin piece swings up and back, making it easier to put on and also talk to people without removing your helmet. They had a reputation for providing a false sense of security because the hinge joint was very weak. Apparently that has changed. Again, look for ventilation, light weight (they are heavier than full face), washable liners and interchangeable lenses. NEVER ride with the face piece in the raised position because it acts like a sail. Around a parking lot is one thing but any kind of speed will cause serious problems.
Three Quarter
A three quarter helmet covers the ear and lower skull area and is usually as heavy as a full face because they don’t seem to have put the technology into them (i.e. carbon fiber). They are cooler than full face or modular but still pretty hot and just as heavy (we used them for a couple of years). You can attach a peak or visor to a 3/4, 5/8 or 1/2 helmet which in my book is a big plus. Try driving your car without using the sun visor when you really need it and you will get the idea. The 3/4, modular and full face are all warmer in cold weather. For anyone subject to claustrophobia, three quarter helmets are a better choice than full face and modular helmets.
Half and 5/8
Half and 5/8 helmets are almost the same. A helmet that dips down slightly behind the ears is considered a 5/8. This offers a little more protection than the 1/2 in the critical lower skull area. Obviously they don’t offer any facial protection as do full face and modular helmets. They are significantly lighter, cooler and do not limit your peripheral vision. They offer little warmth in cold weather however many come with removable flaps to cover your neck and ears. We wear “Buffs” to help with the cold. These are thin microfiber tubes that pull over your head like a stocking. Beware of any liners that add any thickness inside the helmet. They can cause extreme pain in very short order. Like the others, look for the washable liners. They usually have visors which are very helpful in the setting or rising sun (not that we hit the road that early very often ).
Eye protection
Eye protection can range from sunglasses to serious goggles, but what you are trying to do is protect your eyes from flying objects and wind with either style. Whatever does that adequately is fine, which means the sun glasses should be a wrap-around type. Regular prescription glasses or sunglasses that are similar definitely are not eye protection. Goggles sometimes offer the opportunity to mount or actually wear corrective glasses. Most riders opt for some type of wrap-around sun glasses. My experience is that glasses don’t fog like goggles tend to do simply because they are vented better. All eye protection should be shatter proof. This means polycarbonate lenses for glasses. Don’t wear your $200 Foster Grants for riding. You’ll kiss those goodbye in no time due to the hard wear. We buy $20 – $30 glasses that are shatter proof and reasonable quality, certainly lasting long enough to be put out of service due to scratches rather than breakage. A very good source of glasses – both clear and tinted – are safety glasses available at work wear stores. Cheap and very good protection and quality.
It’s a good idea to pick up some clear safety glasses for night riding (which we don’t do) and really crappy, dark days.
Jackets
Acceptable jackets are either leather of high strength fabric made specifically for riding. Denim jackets are barely acceptable in the short term just to get going but, like jeans, only good for about 6 feet in a slide. Leather can be thick or thin. The thin ones need armour at the wear points (shoulder, elbow, dorsal) and should have inner pockets to accommodate that. Armour can feel a little weird but you get used to it. Good leather can be expensive. Get yours custom made if you can; it shouldn’t be any more than a good quality “rack” jacket. Mine is a heavy leather traditional (double breasted) jacket that is a “lifetime” jacket. I had it custom made after riding for a few years so knew exactly what I wanted. Despite its weight, it’s not as hot as you’d think. Now that it’s seen many, many thousands of miles it looks pretty good. I have been offered a lot of money for that jacket. Avoid any with polyester “silk – like” liners; they only make you sweat. Get a liner that provides excellent ventilation. For the most part, avoid jackets that have built in removable liners for warmth (unless the liner is an actual jacket by itself). Opt instead for a liner-less jacket with enough room to layer thin jackets or electrically heated liners.
Fabric jackets are very good value and equally protective. I have a good quality (but not the best) fabric jacket for a second jacket that is waterproof, but causes me to sweat in warm weather even with the vents open. If fabric, I would recommend jackets with Goretex or similar liners if water proof. I sweat a lot in mine and I think that is because the liner doesn’t breathe. Fabric jackets that are waterproof along with matching pants can eliminate the need for rain gear, but get the best. That saves a lot of room in the saddlebag and a saving of up to $2-300 dollars, probably off setting the extra cost of the high-end gear. I suspect fabric jackets may be disposable just like helmets. I have seen a couple of crash victims who were wearing them and they had been well protected but the jacket was ripped and burst at the seams, so I think like the helmets, they may be sacrificial. For that matter, a leather jacket can be destroyed in a crash, too.
This is another area where reflectivity is a consideration for visibility.
If you are just getting started, don’t worry about getting the very best right away. You will develop preferences over time and in the end you will know exactly what you want plus will have a decent spare jacket when you step up.
Don’t think that leather vests offer any protection at all. If you must, make sure it has a zipper, not snaps (quite rare).
Heated jackets and vests
Right up front I will say that jackets have vests beat hands down. Besides your arms, jackets also typically provide warmth around your neck; something that vests don’t do and man, does that make a difference. Temperature controls are available for heated jackets and worth every penny. For vests, obtain the same type of connectors already attached to wire pigtails from an automotive store then attach a lamp cord switch in line on that. The only way to cool down otherwise is to unplug the vest and it’s almost impossible – and quite unsafe – to reconnect while riding. The extra pigtail adds resistance so in really cold weather, can the switch.
Heated jackets are a nice luxury but in a couple of ways are also a safety feature. First, they keep you comfortable so that you can be clear-headed even when it’s cold. Secondly but perhaps more important, the equivalent layers required to achieve the same warmth can be very restrictive to the point of being unable to operate controls and do proper shoulder checks and scans.
Features to look for in all jackets
1. Zippers rather than buttons or snaps: buttons or snaps will tear open on impact. 2. Sleeves that zip or Velcro tighter over the wrist to prevent the sleeve riding up in a slide. 3. Built-in belt to prevent the jacket tearing open if not completely zipped up. 4. The sleeves should not ride up past the top of the hand when reaching for the controls. The sleeves of a well fitted jacket will rest almost to your fingers when hanging down. 5. The lower back should stay below your belt when sitting on the bike. 6. If double breasted, make sure the lapels snap down when worn open. If a tabbed collar (Nehru collar?), make sure the tab can be secured when not snapped together. Man, they really hurt in the wind. 7. Make sure any jacket has vents for hot weather. 8. Pockets should have zip closures and be deep (in case you forget to do it up).
Gloves
We often say that we have spent more money on gloves than anything else trying to get the right combination. Not quite true but we have a few $100 pairs of gloves sitting on a shelf downstairs. If you are a day rider only, one pair of gloves might fit the bill but if you travel any more than a day, count on the need for more than one type of glove.
For physical protection, gloves should be very abrasion resistant. Again, from responding to many bike accidents, I know that riders naturally try to slow or protect themselves by putting their hands down on the pavement while still sliding, resulting in some very serious hand injuries. The glove should cover the wrist bone and they should not restrict you hand movements on the controls. At times, gloves also need to be able to keep your hands warm and dry – often at the same time – but not get too hot when it’s warm. That’s a tall order.
Regular gloves don’t have to be expensive. For regular riding in decent weather I use a pair of leather work gloves that cost ten bucks. I have had them for over ten years and they are like old friends.
It gets interesting when you try to get warm gloves that also allow decent mobility, and this is where we have spent money several times. We eventually found some waterproof leather gloves (with Goretex liners) but they have finally breathed their last and we still haven’t found a pair that adequately replaces them. Typically, rain gloves are also relatively warm so cover off a lot of other riding situations. Make sure the water barrier is breathable or your hands will sweat so much they will get slimy enough to affect your control. All warm and waterproof gloves should go over your sleeve to prevent wind and water from going up your arm. Above all, avoid ski gloves. They have a “set” to the fingers for gripping poles, making it very difficult to stretch out to operate controls.
Electric gloves are great. The technology has improved and ours are no bulkier than some regular cold-weather gloves. When it’s really, really cold they are the only thing that do the trick. They are also water proof.
We also have what we call half gloves or “halfers”. These gloves are fingerless but with serious padding on the palm. They are definitely a compromise but when it’s really, really hot even regular leather gloves can cause your hands to sweat profusely. Also, the discomfort is – again – very distracting. If you make this choice, do so knowing you are compromising your physical safety to some degree, but they are still better than not wearing gloves.
Pants or chaps
Chaps are put on over your normal jeans and typically only protect your legs. They are very handy, very adjustable and provide decent protection, but as described earlier provide nothing for your butt. Good quality chaps (and pants) are made using one piece for the leg rather than pieced together from two or more pieces. More seams offer more places to let go in a slide (and it’s usually very cheap, thin leather).
Leather pants offer full coverage but often are made with lighter weight leather. Of course you have the fitting issue and are very expensive to have more than one pair. I have a friend who swears that leather pants are cooler than jeans. His are leather with no polyester “silky” liner and I know from experience that those liners in jackets or pants cause significant sweating.
Fabric riding pants or over pants are a very good value typically. Some are waterproof but remember to get a breathable barrier. They have armour at the hard wear points.
Full body suits are also available instead of jacket and pants separately. These are probably warmer but in the heat that’s not a good thing. It’s also tough to get down to business at pit stops, if you get my drift. Some manufacturers offer jacket and pant sets that zip together at the back or completely around the middle. It is my understanding that the ones attached at the back are quite versatile.
There is a product called Draggin’ Jeans. These look like regular jeans but are reinforced with kevlar at the major wear points (butt, hips and knees). By all accounts they are very good and would probably be cooler than chaps or full leather. I haven’t tried them or spoken to anyone who has, so can’t offer an informed opinion. They do, however, look like a good idea. This could possibly be a good choice for long distance riders.
“Wicking” underwear
While on the subject of legs/pants, I will mention wicking type underwear. On long days in warm weather it is not uncommon to experience “monkey butt” – which is somewhat self explanatory. This is a very uncomfortable and even painful condition and is cause by sweating right where you sit. Oddly enough, women don’t seem to have a problem with this – only men. The answer is to get wicking underwear. This is much like the polypropylene fabric used in winter underwear that wicks moisture away from the skin. There is a company that provides underwear specifically for riding but they are double layer. Even though they work, I find find them too warm most of the time. I have found some wicking underwear in a work wear store that is cheaper (at $32 instead of $50+) that are super cool and really do the trick. They are ultra easy to wash in a sink or creek and dry in minutes when rolled in a towel.
Boots
Moving on down, boots are the last thing on the list. Boots should cover and protect the ankle. Light hiking boots are just fine and not really expensive; we used a cheap pair for working the lot when training. My recommendation when riding a heavier bike is something with a Vibram type rather than flat sole. This prevents slipping on sandy pavement to some degree when you’re pushing that 900 pound behemoth out of a parking space. Proper heavy riding boots cost no more than good quality hiking boots. Like hiking boots, look for something light. Waterproof-ness is an excellent choice but again, look for the breathable liner. Lighter, more flexible, water proof boots are available that are popular among the sport bike set. They are excellent for comfort and flexibility but if you have a heavier, taller bike or need a tiny bit of help from thicker soles, the other is probably a better choice.
Never, never, never try to make up for being vertically challenged with extremely thick soles. This can be very dangerous from a control point of view (shifting, braking) and while riding and moving the bike around the lot. Get your bike lowered or buy a lower bike in the first place.
In general, good riding boots are a pain to walk in for any length of time and good walking shoes make crappy riding boots. If you travel more than a day, pack a small, squishable pair of decent walking shoes. No sense wearing out those expensive soles walking to dinner every night.
Rain Gear
Waterproof riding gear aside, this is one piece of riding gear that will never leave your bike. Unless, of course, you don’t have some sort of saddle bag or day pack to carry it. Speaking of day packs, any pack should be strapped to the bike. Back packs are extremely hard on your back and arms after any time in the saddle and only serve to place the load high – where it shouldn’t be.
First off, rain gear should be large enough to allow free movement, particularly your legs for shifting and braking. I normally wear a “Large” in anything, but my rain gear is “TripleXL”. Remember that they have to go over your protective gear. I once saw a salesperson at a local dealer selling gear to new riders when they were wearing shorts and tee’s. Unacceptable! Wear all your protective gear, put your prospective rain gear over that then sit on your bike or another similar to check for mobility.
Two piece is far more versatile than one piece suits and far easier to put on, have better access to inside pockets and allow wearing pants alone in anticipation of rain after your hit the road. Look for large zippers on the legs that run both ways top to bottom or at least so far up the leg that donning them is as easy as possible. Most good gear has large pockets (not a big deal because you rarely use them) and double fold closures. Stirrups on the ends of the legs are a must so that the legs don’t ride up. Most, if not all, will have Velcro straps to make cuffs close-fitting. Try to buy gear that offers separately sized jacket and pants so that neither top nor bottom is too bulky or too small. If they leak anywhere, it’s through the neck, so make sure it has an efficient collar.
I mentioned gaiters earlier. Try to get gaiters that cover the toe only, leaving the sole of the boot for wear protection and traction. full cover “booties” are very slippery to walk in. Make sure their ultra easy to put on. By the time you put them on you are so overstuffed it can be a nightmare process. Better yet, get waterproof boots.
“Extras”
There all kinds of “extras” that make riding far more enjoyable during inclement conditions. Mentioned earlier, heated gear can extend your season and make uncomfortably cold mornings quite enjoyable.
We have “Buffs” (brand name) that are simple polypropylene tubes that are pulled over your head and neck. They can be worn like a full balaclava, a “half” balaclava or as a neck warmer. They are thin enough that even two doubled up aren’t too tight under your helmet. They dry in very short order after rain or washing.
Hair gloves are leather tubes that snap together to provide a cover for pony tails. They protect long hair very well. They are available in some bike dealers’ and also at equestrian supply stores. They are also available on line.
I have seen and used various versions of face covers made from leather and poly covered foam rubber. I have mixed feelings on these. They work fairly well but I have difficulty breathing and they get pretty skanky and are hard to wash. We ended up with the buffs instead.
Although not riding gear, always carry sun screen for your skin as well as a lip sun screen. Lips and face can get pretty sore on long, sunny days.
Again, not riding gear, but heated grips are awesome. My new bike came with heated grips and now I wouldn’t be without them.
I mentioned wicking underwear for guys earlier. You may or may not need it. You will know if you do.
While on the subject of butts, and although it’s not protective gear at all, custom seats can make the difference between you hating or loving your bike. Avoid buying OEM accessory seats or after market mass produced seats (Mustang, Corbin). You will probably be trading one butt ache for another because you will be treating the symptom rather than the problem. Opt instead for a custom seat made by an upholsterer who knows body mechanics. Their first objective should be to get you in the correct riding position (which might include bar and foot control changes) and then to make it fit your butt. We had our seat altered by Rich’s Custom Seats out of Seattle (Rich got into this because he is an Iron Butt rider). It was cheaper than the Mustang that had made things worse than the original. We rode 800 clicks the day after it was installed. Before that, I was good for 600 max and was in great pain at that. It was like getting measured for a suit. He has an effective mail order procedure as well. He’s on the net.
Wrap up
If there is one thing that is common to all good gear, it is versatility. Besides offering good protection, good gear should be as versatile and adaptable as possible, keeping in mind a “Swiss Army Knife” approach can go too far. The less gear you have to pack keeps your load light, leaving more room for a tux or dinner jacket. Above all, it should be comfortable and as unobtrusive as possible. If it’s a pain to wear you probably won’t wear it when you should and there goes your insurance in case you go down.
